WHAT TO CHECK ON YOUR BOAT - CHECKING YOUR DECK AND CABIN AREAS
My colleague last week talked about checking the hull,
propeller, sea valves and rudder on your boat, so this week I want to talk to
about the deck and cabin areas.
Photo 1 |
There’s not a part of your boat that isn’t important but
these are areas often overlooked. You
need to check the deck, especially any joins, to make sure it’s not cracked or
corroded and that there’s no corrosion on any of the metal fastenings – bolts,
screws, nails. If you do need to replace
fastenings, make sure they are the right type, if you’re sailing at sea you
don’t want to use ones designed for fresh water. Does the deck feel springy or
soft when walking around? This could suggest damage. Do a press test on any
wooden areas of the deck with a small cross head screwdriver to check for rot;
flaky paint could be a sign that the wood below is rotten. Any rotted areas of
wood should be replaced.
Check the rubber seals of any joins and around hatches,
doorways and windows to make sure they haven’t become sun or water damaged. If
they feel hard, brittle or are cracked or split, replace them.
Photo 2 |
All deck fittings should be checked – cleats, bollards, etc.
Are the holding down bolts secure and not corroded? Are they sealed at the deck?
Are backing plates fitted under the deck and are they undamaged?
Once you’ve checked the structure on the outside, you now
need to do the same in the cockpit and in the cabins. Think about any areas where you may have
dropped something heavy or that have taken a lot of weight to see if there is
damage that needs repairing. Is there any sign of water or water damage that
may suggest a leak?
Any areas that are difficult to access should be thoroughly
checked as these are usually the areas subject to the least maintenance. So
lift all floor plates, check behind lockers, carpets, bunks, etc.
Now that you’re having a good look around inside, this is
also a good time to check your bilge pump.
The best way to test it, is to have it pump out water; ensure the bilge
area is clean and fill it with water. If there is a bilge alarm then lift the
float to test this, run the bilge pump and make sure it empties the bilge. You might need to clean the strum box filter to
get the pump working properly.
Clutter is not a good thing on a boat. Keep gangways and
access points clear, remove any excess equipment from bilges, lockers and
cabins.
Now that you’ve checked the hull and superstructure you
might be tempted to think that your boat is ready to go on the water but there
are a few more things for you to check before that happens. Next week one of my colleagues will be giving
you some more advice on what to check on your boat.
MCA Marine Surveyor Adam Jackson, Hull Marine Office.
Photos
1 Safe access route and distorted bollards. This shows the
only access to the living area on the vessel.
The bollards will also wear away ropes or lines attached to them and the
sharp edges will cut them.
2 Ragged and rusted edges on a hatch cover. Not only could this let water in, there is also
a danger to those on board of serious lacerations. The ragged edge could also
damage any seals.
3 Hatch that is completely rotten and has mushrooms growing
on it. This was on a fishing boat.
4 Damage must be repaired properly,
not hidden and forgotten. Duck tape is
not an acceptable repair, even if you paint over it.
5 Deck attachment worn down through use. You can clearly see that it is half the width
it should be meaning it is half as strong.
If any of your attachments are worn they need to be replaced.
6 Blocked passageway.
Keep access routes clear in case of an emergency.
7 Crack in the structure.
This crack was in the lifeboat hook foundation that is designed to
support 14 tonnes and required significant repairs.
8 Unsafe equipment and fire hazards. It would be easier to explain what is safe in
this photo. Some of the dangers that are
easy to see are; trip hazards, unsafe electrical equipment such as a sink and
hob in one unit, mattresses that are a fire hazard, radiator in a dangerous
position, no fencing around the hob to prevent pots falling and inadequate
ventilation.
9 Unsecured ballast. Here the ballast is free to move around
the boat which means that when you turn, it will roll and your boat will be
extremely unstable. Note as well the flexi exhaust laying on the propeller
shaft.
All of these vessels were detained by MCA Marine Surveyors.
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